Customers explore a floor of men's fashion 

After three years of growth, Italian men's fashion concludes 2024 with a slight decline. However, the sector shows signs of resilience, especially abroad, where new promising markets are emerging. 2025 opened with caution and hope, with Pitti Uomo serving as a barometer for trends. 

In 2024, Italian men's fashion experienced a slowdown after a sustained three-year run. According to data released by Confindustria Moda during Pitti Uomo, the year's key event that concluded on June 20, the sector recorded a revenue decline of 3.6 percent, amounting to 11.4 billion euros. The entire sector - which includes woven clothing, outer knitwear, shirts, ties, and leather clothing - still represents 19.1 percent of the entire Italian textile-apparel supply chain, confirming its strategic importance. The production value, which measures the net activity carried out in Italy in imports, fell by 3.0 percent. Only leather goods closed the year positively (+5.6 percent), while ties experienced the most significant contraction (-8.2 percent), followed by knitwear, textile clothing (both at -3.8 percent), and shirts (-3.2 percent).

In 2024, exports remained stable, with a marginal growth of 0.1 percent and a value of 8.8 billion euros. Exports thus accounted for 77.4 percent of the total revenue, highlighting the international orientation of Italian menswear. 

Conversely, imports decreased by 5.4 percent, dropping to 5.3 billion euros. The trade balance benefited from this, rising to 3.5 billion euros, and indicating still solid competitiveness in global markets.

The non-EU market remains the main buyer of exports at 54.1 percent, despite a slight decline of 0.2 percent. In contrast, the EU area grew by 0.6 percent, covering 45.9 percent of foreign sales. France remains the top destination for Italian menswear, with a value of 1.2 billion (+5.5 percent), followed by Germany (950 million, -3.1 percent), and the US (893 million, +1.0 percent). 

China is making significant strides (+20 percent), positioning itself fourth with 777 million euros. Its Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR) also grew (+13.7 percent), demonstrating the vitality of the Asian market. Notable performances were also seen from Poland and the United Arab Emirates, both experiencing double-digit growth.

Among suppliers, China leads with 12 percent of imports, followed by Bangladesh (11.3 percent), and France (8.2 percent). Positive performances were noted from Spain (+19.4 percent) and the Netherlands (+2.4 percent), traditional logistical hubs for continental Europe. In contrast, Romania, Tunisia, Turkey, and Belgium saw significant declines.

Leather up, ties down

The analysis by product category highlights a strong polarization. Leather clothing is the only segment that grew both in exports (+11.1 percent) and imports (+5.2 percent), confirming its counter-trend against the rest of the sector. The clothing sector shows a slight recovery abroad (+0.1 percent) but declines on the import front (-5.8 percent). Among the products facing the most difficulties are ties, which are down in both exports (-7.4 percent) and imports (-20.2 percent), indicating a consolidated trend toward abandoning formal accessories in everyday and professional fashion. Knitwear and shirts also faced challenges, albeit with more contained declines.

In Italy, men's fashion sales in 2024 grew by 0.8 percent. However, they remain below pre-pandemic levels. The predominant sector remains clothing (52.6 percent of sell-out), followed by knitwear (34 percent), shirts (9.5 percent), and leather clothing (2.9 percent). Ties account for just 1 percent. The Spring/Summer 2024 season closed with a slight decline (-0.6 percent), while the Autumn/Winter 2024-25 season saw a more marked recovery (+1.6 percent), driven by all sectors except ties (-8.2 percent). The Italian consumer today seems to favor versatile and comfortable garments, prioritizing quality and functionality, elements increasingly demanded even in high-end products.

In terms of distribution channels, chain stores continue to dominate with a 47 percent share, followed by large-scale distribution (23.3 percent), which is growing driven by the food channel. E-commerce declined (-5.9 percent) and stands at 8.1 percent, indicating a return to a more stable dimension after the pandemic boom. In contrast, street trading recorded a +36.2 percent growth, highlighting unexpected vitality, likely linked to local dynamics or specific price segments. Outlet and discount stores lost ground (-11.4 percent) during a phase of rationalization of the offer.

Photos: Courtesy of Pitti Uomo

A change of pace?

The first two months of 2025 showed a reversal of trend compared to 2024. Exports fell by 6.9 percent, while imports grew by +10.4 percent, driven mainly by a strong increase in non-EU demand (+25.5 percent). Bangladesh and China lead the supplier rankings, with growth rates of +61.9 percent and +32.1 percent, respectively. Vietnam, Pakistan, Cambodia, and India also show double-digit expansion rates, confirming the importance of Asian supply chains in fast fashion and entry-level segments.

Exports to France remain steady (-3.5 percent), but declines are being seen in China (-16.6 percent), China's HKSAR (-10.9 percent), South Korea (-17.1 percent), and Switzerland (-23.5 percent). In contrast, the US grew by +9.5 percent, confirming its strategic role for high-end menswear, and Poland achieved a remarkable +23.1 percent.

According to a survey conducted among companies associated with Confindustria Moda, 75 percent of operators expect revenue stability in the first half of 2025 compared to the same period in 2024. Only 10 percent are optimistic, while 15 percent anticipate a deterioration.

The sentiment, therefore, is cautious. Companies are aware of the need to adapt to a rapidly changing scenario, where geopolitical tensions, inflation, and cost pressures combine with new tastes and purchasing behaviors. Pitti Uomo, as every year, remains a key appointment to gauge market sentiment, launch new collections, and strengthen international relationships.